Tynemouth Castle & Priory ~ November 2019

A cold but sunny day had Sophie and I opt for a short outing nearby to Tynemouth Priory.

Get your cuppa ready, here comes

The History Bit. *Long post alert* skimmers and those of you with short attention spans should move right along to the pictures 🙂

Firstly, as fabulous as I am, condensing 2000 years of convoluted Northumbrian history in one blog post is not an easy task, so bear with me and a potted version will have to suffice.

The Priory stands on a headland known by ancient Britains as Pen Bal Crag, the literal translation of that is, unsurprisingly ‘The head of the rampart on the rock’. It overlooks the North Sea and the River Tyne, and combined with Tynemouth Castle was once one of the largest fortified areas in England. The moated castle towers, gatehouse and keep are incorporated into the ruins of a Benedictine priory, where the early Kings of Northumbria were buried. Note for my Colonial brethren, before we were a United Kingdom, we were a few small kingdoms, a bit like Game of Thrones. Without the Dragons, although maybe…. but that’s a story for another day! Onwards McDuff….

Not much is known about it’s early origins, although some Roman stones were found at the site, there’s no other evidence to say they were in occupation there. So we have to start in the 7th century when Edwin of Northumbria possibly founded the priory.

Britain peoples circa 600

Edwin, (586 – 12 October 632/633) was King of Deira and Bernicia which you can see on the map there. They later became Northumbria, which still exists though the borders are different now, and the Priory is now in Tyne & Wear. He was King from 616 until he was killed by Penda, King of Mercia, and Cadwallon ap Cadfan, the pesky Welsh King of Gwynedd, in the Battle of Hatfield Chase, after which Edwin was venerated as a saint. He had converted to Christianity and was baptised in 627. He’s an interesting chap, but it’s only possible he founded the priory, so we’ll leave him there.

In 634 Oswald, son of the Bernician and later Deiran King Æthelfrith, came to the throne, and united the two into Northumbria after defeating Cadwallon in battle at Heavenfield near Hexam. He was also a Christian convert, and was according to Bede a good and saintly King. Unfortunatley his downfall came about at the hands of the pagan King of Mercia, Penda, who, in 642 defeated and killed Oswald at the Battle of Maserfield in Oswestry, where his body was dismembered and his head and limbs were placed on stakes. He’s a saint too now.

Oswine was next up, his Dad Osric was a cousin of Edwin and a King of Diera, and Oswine’s succession in 644 split Northumbria and they became Diera and Bernicia yet again, with Oswiu, son of Æthelfrith, becoming King in Bernicia. There were 7 years of peace between them, then Oswiu declared war on Oswine. Oswine didn’t want a fight so he scarpered off to his pal Earl Humwald who lived in North Yorkshire, but Humwald betrayed him and gave him over to Oswiu’s soldiers, who promptly killed him. Oswine was buried at Tynemouth, with his relics later being transferred to the Priory. And guess what, he’s another Saint! (In 1103 the Bishop of Durham, Ralph Flambard took the remains from the Priory chapel, which was in disrepair, and interred them in St.Albans Abbey, Hertfordshire. A long way from home).

Onwards to 789-790 when Osred II was King in Northumbria but for a very short time. He was deposed in favour of Æthelred and exiled to the Isle of Man. For some reason he returned in 792 when the Anglo Saxon Chronicle reports that he was “apprehended and slain on the eighteenth day before the calends ( 1st day of every month) of October. His body was deposited at Tynemouth Priory.

Cracking on to 800 and the pesky Danes plundered the Priory, after which the monks there fortified the place enough to deter the Danes next visit in 832. But 3 years later, back they came and massacred the Nuns of St.Hildas who had gone there for safety, and destroyed the church and monastery. They plundered the Priory again in 870, and destroyed it in 875, leaving only the small parish church of St.Marys.

On to the reign of King Edward the Confessor who ruled from 1042 – 1066 when Tostig Godwinson, Earl of Northumberland made Tynemouth his fortress. The priory by now was abandoned, and St. Oswine’s buriel place was forgotten. Now St.Oswine was fed up of being forgotten so he appeared to a hermit novice monk living at the priory and showed him where to find his tomb, so he was re-discovered in 1065. Tostig decided to re-found the Priory, but got himself killed at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066 so that idea went tits up.

The third King to be buried at the Priory was Malcolm III, King of Scotland from  1058 to 1093.. After ravaging Northumberland in 1093, due to a dispute with King William Rufus ( “the Red”, king of the English (1087–1100) he was ambushed on his way back North by Robert de Mowbray, Earl of Northumbria, who was mightily naffed off that Malcolm had devastated his lands. The ambush occurred near Alnwick, on 13th November 1903, and Malcolm was slain by Arkil Morel, steward of Bambrough Castle. This became known as the Battle of Alnwick. Malcolm’s body was buried at Tynemouth Priory, but later sent North to Dunfermline Abbey when his son Alexander reigned. Shakespear based Malcolm in Macbeth on this King Malcolm.

Two years later and Robert de Mowbray took refuge in Tynemouth Castle after rebelling against King William II. The King beseiged it and Mowbray was dragged from there and imprisoned for life for treason. In 1110 a new church was completed on the site. It is thought that a castle consisting of earthen ramparts and a wooden stockade was already in place by 1095. The stone building we can see now didn’t happen until 1296 when the Prior applied for and was granted royal permission to surround the monastery with walls of stone, with a gatehouse and barbican being added on the landward side in 1390.

A little before then in 1312 King Edward II and his pet sycophant and possible boyfriend Piers Gaveston took refuge in the castle before fleeing to Scarborough Castle by sea. His  illegitimate son Adam Fitzroy was buried at the Priory on 30th September 1322.

Then along came Henry VIII and the dissolution of the monasteries. Tynemouth Priory copped it in 1538 when a chap called Robert Blakeney would be the last Prior. There were 15 monks and 3 novices living there as well, but the Priory and it’s lands were taken over by Henry and gifted to Sir Thomas Hilton. The monastery was dismantled but the Prior’s house was left standing. Henry kept the castle though and in 1545 new artillery fortifications commenced with the advice from Sir Richard Lee, Henry’s military engineer, and two Italian engineers, Gian Tommaso Scala and Antonio da Bergamo. Gunports were put in place in the castle walls.

In 1564 when his father was guardian of the castle, Henry Percy, the 9th Earl of Northumberland was born in the castle. His Dad, the 8th Earl, was responsible for maintaining the navigation light, a coal fired brazier on top of one of the castle turrets. It’s not known when that practice began but is mentioned in a source in 1582. The Earl and his successors in that office were entitled to receive dues from passing ships in return. Unfortunately the stairs up to the turret collapsed in 1559 preventing the fire from being lit, so in 1665 the then Governor, Colonel Villiers obtained a grant of 1s toll from every English ship and 3s from every foreign ship for the maintenance of the light, and built a new lighthouse at the north-east corner of the Castle promontory. It was rebuilt in 1775 and by 1807 had upgraded from coal fire to a revolving red light via an oil fired argand light in 1802. It was demolished in 1898 having been superceded by St.Mary’s Lighthouse in Whitley Bay to the north.

So modern times now, we’re nearly at the end. (yay!) At the end of the 19th century new buildings and barracks had been added to the castle though many were removed after a fire in 1936. In WW2 it was used as a coastal defence installation to guard the mouth of the Tyne. Restored sections are open to the public. More recently the modern buildings of Her Majesty’s Coastguard were on site and opened by Prince Charles in 1990. The coastguard station was closed in 2001, being replaced by digital equipment at a Bridlington station that can monitor the sea from Berwick to the Humber Estuary. New technology sweeping away the past, but it was always thus.

And that’s the lot, it’s now managed by English Heritage.

Well done whoever got to the end, you are my very favourite visitor 😘

So here we go walking up to the site, and there’s the castle and walls directly ahead, looks imposing. Well I was imposed anyhoo.

Into the keep where there’s a little side room you get your ticket, or show your card if you’re a English Heritage member (I am).

A tantalising view of the Priory before you go through the iron gate

it looks so chunky and indestructable, even though it’s destructed!

then you go through the arch and to the left

to the right

and then through the arch you come to the KAPOW view, which I just had to do in B&W

there’s a little archway and door you can see at the bottom there

which leads to the 15th Century Oratory of St.Mary, or the Percy Chapel. It has a ceiling decorated with numerous coats of arms and other symbols, stained-glass side windows, and a small rose window in the east wall, above the altar.

This is the view of it looking back, you can see the little chapel all intact.

Interesting details on the boards around the monastery.

That will do I think, but there are more photo’s of the Priory HERE and this includes the restored gun battery and cannon.

All pics are embiggenable with a click.

refs:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tynemouth_Castle_and_Priory

https://www.twsitelines.info/SMR/730

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/tynemouth-priory-and-castle/

46 Comments

  1. Wonderful images particularly the Percy chapel. The history is really interesting and I didnt skip! Penda was a big noise in these parts along with Offa. He gave his name to a number of places including a suburb of Wolverhampton Pendeford….Penda’s Ford….Northumbria is full of saints…..we must visit and explore. Thanks for sharing 😀

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Glad you enjoyed it!

      Like

  2. I had to look at these stunning photos multiple times. Thank you! Describing the directions you took as you walked through was a bonus. I had no idea it was used as a lighthouse- that was interesting. Is the writing on the headstones readable? Here in New England they used slate for headstones early on, and they are as readable today as they were in the 1600’s.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. A fair amount of them are Jennie, but a lot are of sandstone which is common up here, so have worn away with the wind and spray coming off the sea.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Sandstone. Well, people used what they had. Common sense. When we moved to New England from Pennsylvania, it was the first time I saw headstones made from slate. They tell stories! And, we moved from an area where homes were brick to an area where homes were clapboard. Like the headstones, people used what they had. Common sense.

        Liked by 1 person

        1. I like reading headstones, always photograph interesting ones, and I love coming across one from the 16 or 1700’s. Not all are sandstone, have come across granite and marble now and then.

          Liked by 1 person

  3. An amazing structure, shown in these amazing photos! I loved the “Long Post Alert!”

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I don’t want people boring themselves! Cheers Marland.

      Liked by 1 person

  4. Absolutely brilliant. I read every word as I love British history. Can’t wait for season 5 of ‘The Last Kingdom’ coming out in the States on the 23rd!!!!!!
    My favorite picture is the black and white one. I don’t know why, it just seems to capture the age of the place. What a remarkable building and grounds.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Not sure I’ve seen season 4 yet! Will have to have a look for it. Thanks for visiting Cindy and your kind comments.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I don’t think we have had season 4 either. 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

        1. That’ll be why 🙂 OK cheers Pete.

          Liked by 1 person

  5. Great picures and a very interesting story. The chapel is cool, with it’s extremely complicated (and beautifully crafted) vault for such a small building. It makes one wonder how the big church must have looked like. Your pictures always make me want to visit England again. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Peter! 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Thanks for that enlightening lessen in history and the pictures. Ever since I took Old English at university, I’ve been interested in that part of English history.
    Take care, and stay healthy,
    Pit

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Pit, you too!

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Being a king was very dangerous in the old days! Prince Charles probably wasn’t there in 1890, but he’s been around a while so it’s possible. 😉 Thanks for the history lesson!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Haha cheers ToC!

      Liked by 1 person

  8. Well I read it all, and looked at the extra photos too. So ‘ner’! 🙂
    Although I have visited that area a lot, I never did get to Tynemouth. That makes me appreciate your post even more.
    Best wishes, Pete.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I know you read them 🙂 it’s a nice olde worlde place and the Priory is the cherry on the icing, cheers Pete! 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I had looked at renting a holiday house in Tynemouth a couple of years ago. But Julie went to Butlin’s with her daughter and grandson, instead. I should have gone on my own, with Ollie. 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

        1. Ah should have, we’d have shown you the sights!

          Liked by 1 person

  9. Breathtaking photos and interesting history! Thanks for sharing this wonderful place with us!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for coming along! 🙂

      Like

  10. I wasn’t bored at all as you always bring your country’s history to life. I swear I’ve learned more from you and Pete than I ever did in school!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Glad to be part of your edumacation of the motherland! 🤣🤣 seriously I thank you Ma’am. 😘

      Liked by 1 person

  11. Amazing, love the saintly but slightly murderous kings! Great photos 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Steve, 😊

      Like

  12. It looks so clean and pure… is like somebody build a 3D model in a green lot. Thank you, fragglerocking, certainly I read your history remarks, I only would like to have more acquaintance with the old names, but being exotic to me most of them are lost except those quite beautiful as Æthelfrith.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I like that name too, cheers Francis.

      Liked by 1 person

  13. The Percy Chapel has moved this to the top of my list of places to visit. I’ll have to bear it in mind when I visit other ruins, because they must all have looked a bit like that.

    I read all the history – you knew I would. I think you’ve got Prince Charles opening the Coastguard station in the wrong century. I don’t know how interested you are in Penda, but Annie Whitehead has written a novel about him – Cometh the Hour. I found it complicated, but if you know all the people involved, you might enjoy it. She doesn’t mention that the kings he defeated were declared saints.

    Poor Piers Gaveston, even in death no one likes him.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I had Prince Charles in there? I think someone else mentioned that and I thought they were joking! Going back to revise! Yes Piers was not well loved, except by the King of course. Cheers April.

      Liked by 1 person

    2. haha yes found the error and put him back in our timeline!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I’m sure he’ll be very grateful.

        Liked by 1 person

  14. Once again I find myself living vicariously through your adventures. These shots are stunning especially the “KAPOW” one. The B&W is soooo fitting. I admit…I kinda stared at it for a bit. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Haha that’s fine, I did too 🤣🤣

      Liked by 1 person

  15. For me it looks like such a British landscape around Tynemouth Priory (knowing it’s quite different in different parts of the country). The castle is really stunning, and you captured it beautifully in that low sunlight.

    Liked by 1 person

  16. I like the kapow view in black and white.

    Liked by 1 person

  17. […] seems to have led an unsuccessful revolt against his father, Oswiu (who you may remember in this post) and before Wilfred returned, Oswiu had put another chap, Ceadda, in the Bishopric, so Wilf went […]

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.